How to install sterling neo-angle shower door

I may be thinking of an Alumax Door though. Those compound angles are what gives everyone the trouble Very unforgiving! Thank you for a constructive answer jerco md.

My husband is about to throw in the door I would still like to try to salvage this one. At least until we can tell if it will leak. I know that when it was being installed there were two spacers placed in the tracks by the wall. It just seems that much of the unit needs to be disassembled to attempt this. Thank you again.

I have been trying to install the Sterling Neo-angle shower kit purchased from Lowes all day today Sunday. The holes in the glass walls don't match up at all with the C brackets and jambs.

The jambs do not resemble the diagrams, and the only differentiation given for the glass fixed panels is that the one next to the pivot ships with the magnet in the jamb.

Well neither had a magnet in the jamb. How hard would it be to label which panel is which. The instructions show diagrams of the panels being identical, but they are very different.

Very shoddy product. What should have been a snap turned into hours of frustration and anger. I have tested the 'magnetic' strips right out of the box and they don't appear to attract anything..

This is my second and last Kohler product. I will be calling Kohler tomorrow at sterling. Our plumber left in disgust tonight - the Sterling kit is not going together like it should. The door closing failure might be related to the orientation of the magnetic strip in the slot on the side wall - there is an offset groove on the side of the black strip that indicates magnetic polarity. If the door won't close, try pulling the strip out and put it back in with the groove shifted towards the other edge of the slot.

Give it a try - it slides in and out easily. I think I am greatful I read these posts efor purchasing this obvoiusly flawed product. Unfortunately I still need the space-saving feature of this style. Can anyone out there advise me on a good Neo-Angle shower product to buy?

Better save up some money and buy a sliding door. Just replacing the parts will cost you more. It is better to spend money and buy a regular door. When my children broke the door in their room, my wife wanted to replace it with a cheap door that was not reliable and did not fit into the design of our apartment.

I work as a designer, and all things in the house must be matched. I spent a long time choosing different door options at [ doordesignlab. My wife was outraged by my decision, but there's nothing I can do about my perfectionism.

Search for plumbing parts on our sponsor's site:. Special thanks to our sponsor:. Over , strictly plumbing related posts. How to Show Images. Post Reply. Re: Sterling Neo Angle Shower door alignment Author: hj AZ If the door fit properly originally, and all you did was reverse it and not it does not fit, then something has to be twisted, but without being there to check it we cannot determine the real problem.

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Author: redwood CT Return it? Author: hj AZ If the door fit properly originally, and all you did was reverse it and not it does not fit, then something has to be twisted, but without being there to check it we cannot determine the real problem.

Author: jdef PA I don't see any twists or misalignments No caulk on the inside. Is that how you have it? No bottom channel. The screws on this model are hidden when you slide the glass panel section into the side jam.

I have to fight every instinct I have when I install those customer supplied doors. That is approaching bullet proof, or at least jewelry store window quality.

We don't know which shower you used or the door either. But you refer to "tracks" and "doors". A Neo-angle cannot use sliding doors so they do not need tracks, and it usually only has one door on the angled side.

Is this a multiple piece shower? Is it a new door? Yes and no HJ. The glass panels have one screw at the top and one at that bottom that are adjustment screws to make up for out of plumb walls and they are recessed. You actually have to put your screw driver through a hole to reach the screws and then you cap that hole.

But even if water got through the cap it would drain out of the bottom and into the shower. I wonder where the original poster is. But once you install the wall channels and then slide the glass panels into them, what holds them in place. All the ones I have ever seen were then attached with screws or aluminum pop rivets.

Is this in a basement? I'm not a pro, but I had a lot of frustration with a similar issue until I determined that the leak was actually coming from the shower drain. If the shower drain is improperly installed in the pan, it can leak.

If, like mine, yours is set in cement and on a floor that is not level, water may appear to be coming from the seams of the shower doors. In my case, I finally determined that the leaking was the drain. Water was getting outside of the p-trap and filtering through the cement base and winding up in areas that made it look like the shower doors were leaking.

Just a thought. Good luck. Sorry for the delay in replying I'm not certain if I'm allowed to do this or not, but I will post a link that will lead you to a picture of the type of shower we have. We have all this money invested in this bathroom and can't even shower in it! Hubby has just about had it with the thing. As for particulars on the types of fixtures, screws and such I have not a clue Thank you all for replying to my post.

Not sure what we'll do at this point but leaning more and more towards the sledge hammer idea! Have a good weekend! Yes, that's the one I thought it was. Only caulk around the outside of the shower. If you caulk the inside it will trap water and eventually will leak through to the outside. We have a similar shower and are tempted to remodel but now I'm thinking we just need to deal with it differently.

May I expand the question: to stop leaks and mildew inside Even the best silicon bathroom caulk get nasty with mildew after a couple months. Only caulk the outside walls and base We have the same shower. It seems that the main issue is in the back, lower corner where the floor of the shower meets the two adjoining walls.

There doesn't seem to be enough structural support there which allows the caulk to pull away from the joint when the floor is stepped on. I have considered injecting some kind of expanding foam or concrete under the floor panel to give it strength prior to re-caulking.

Ill let you know how it works. I wonder if MattH, or anyone, has solved this problem.